Well, it ain't no Sainte Chapelle...

... but I'm home.  :)

I've been meaning to post something saying I'm home for the past week (since I've been home for a week now), but I just haven't been feeling motivated.  Today, though, is the day.  I am home.  And it is time to post something.  So before I write anything else, I want to finish up with the Paris post that never made it out of the queue: pictures from my visit to the Sainte Chapelle with Karen.  They speak pretty well for themselves, so the only background information I'll offer is that it was constructed in the mid-13th century by Louis IX to house the Crown of Thorns (yes, like, the Crown of Thorns), but you can go to the Wikipedia link if you want to know more about what the Sainte Chapelle is.

Entrance to the lower chapel.  Yeah, seriously.

More lower chapel.  At some point I learned the vocabulary for all of the parts of a cathedral, but I've completely forgotten it now.  And I guess I learned it in French, so that wouldn't be much help anyway.

Inside the main part of the cathedral itself.  If you ever go to Paris, go here, and not to Notre Dame, for your cathedral experience.  While there are lots of tourists here, they're very quiet and respectful, whereas at Notre Dame they're incredibly loud and rude.

The rose window.

Unless I'm very much mistaken, this is the reliquary that houses the Crown of Thorns.  But don't take my word on that.

So that was the Sainte Chapelle.  I mean, do you see how hard it is to write a blog post about being back home after you've been hanging out in 13th century gothic cathedrals for 6 weeks?  'Cause that's what we do in Paris, just hang out in 13th century gothic cathedrals.

But seriously, it's very nice to be back, I just kind of don't know what to say about it.  It's amazing how quickly Paris seems so long ago.  And it's doubly weird that my friend and collaborator, who I was living with, is still there right now.  It really seems like it was ages and ages ago, and yet just last weekend, I was biking along the Canal and taking in all those Parisian smells.

One thing I will mention is what an amazing memory trigger the sense of smell is.  One of the first things that struck me when we got to Paris was the smell of the metro.  And I have no idea how to describe it, or what it is, and I can't even really remember what it smells like very well right now, but as soon as we got down into the metro, my brain was like, "PARIS.  YOU ARE IN PARIS."  It's not an especially strong smell, and definitely not an offensive odor or anything, it's just so particular, and it was so jarring to have that, of all things, come rushing back to me after so many years.

And then, as I was walking home to our house in Berkeley from the BART station last Monday night, the fruity-sweet smell of summer flowers wafted over me, and my brain went, "Mmmmm California.  You are in California."

Smells are so funny that way.

Well, the other thing I wanted to say is that I'm headed to Illinois next week, if you can believe it.  I wasn't originally planning to, after all this traveling, but fall semester is going to be crazy busy, so otherwise I wouldn't be able to make it back until Christmas, and that's a long time with no Illinois love.  So I'm flying in to Chicago on August 3rd, taking the train down to C-U on the 4th, hanging around until probably the 8th, then back up to Chicago for a little bit and flying back to Berkeley on the 10th.  Very quick little trip, but this way I get to go to my cousin's baby shower, and it'll be so nice to be in my Illinois home and see people, as always.

I think that's a wrap for now.  I'll try to write again relatively soon!

Paris Parks FAIL (sort of)

My goodness, how time has flown!  Gosh, I can't even remember what I've been doing over the past week that I haven't updated my blog.

Well, for one thing, I've got a bit of a project going that is related to my blog, but basically replaced the time I might have otherwise spent actually writing in it this past week.  So... more on that in a few weeks, I guess, but in the meantime I will just say that I have been having such a nice time in Paris and it seems like such a shame to leave, in a way.  I mean, I know I can't stay here forever, and it would obviously start to get old eventually, but I've just had such a great time!

So let's see... my last entry was from July 7th, what have I done since then?  Well, last weekend, the friends I'm staying with went on a little daylong excursion to a neighboring town, and I took the opportunity to go to a free jazz festival in one of the last big Parisian parks I hadn't visited yet.  I've knocked a good number of things off of my "Paris To-Do" list since I've been here, and I'm very pleased about that.  I did the Sainte Chappelle with Karen, Emily and I did the Grande Roue, and one other thing I always meant to do was to get out to see the Bois de Vincennes.  So the Bois de Boulogne is the big park that extends all along the western side of Paris, and it's where I used to go running a lot of the time when I lived here.  The Bois de Vincennes is the big park way on the opposite side of Paris, in the southeast corner (which is probably why I never got there), and there's a big castle and botanical gardens and all sorts of cool things to check out.  So since I had the day all to myself with nothing to do and there was a free jazz festival going on, I took the opportunity to sort of kill two birds with one stone and see the Bois de Vincennes and some free jazz.

The concert I saw was really great!  There was a jazz accordionist, if you can believe it, and he was incredibly talented.  They played some super cool music, and it was a really nice afternoon, and I was so glad I went.  I also had a fun little exchange with an older French dude, related to the fact that I had misunderstood how the public bike system works.  So, the public bikes.  They are so great.  But the thing is, you normally have to have a credit or debit card with this little chip on the front of it to be able to pay to use a bike.  In fact, all machines everywhere that accept cards in Paris basically require you to have a card with the chip.  And my impression is that all machines everywhere in the world except the U.S. require you to have this little chip thing, actually.  So it sucks as an American to have a hard time using your credit/debit card to pay for things.  It means you have to pay cash for everything, which means you have to keep going to the ATM, which means you wrack up an impressive number of bank fees pretty quickly.  (Except Emily told me that Bank of America has "partner banks" in most foreign countries, where you can use their ATMs without getting charged any fees, and it turns out BNP Paribas is my French bank.  That would have been really nice to know before I got charged like $30 in bank fees.  But I digress.)

Anyway, the Vélib' bike thing normally works by just inserting your bank card and getting charged a euro or whatever for the time you use the bike.  Unless you don't have a card you can use, in which case you can purchase a day pass or a week pass on their website, and they give you a little number you can type into the machines.  So that was really nice to figure that out, and we did that the first week we were here.  But it's 8€ a week to use the bikes, and it's only 29€ a year if you buy a special pass.  So heck, knowing I was going to be here like 6 weeks, it was totally worth it to buy the year long pass.  The thing is, I just assumed that in typing in my credit card information online to buy the pass, they would just keep my card info and charge me for however much I used the bike.  (The first 45 minutes of each ride are free, and beyond that it's 1€/hour.)  But no.  Of course not.  Silly me, this is France!

The point of the story is this: I was going to go for a very nice bike ride to explore the Bois de Vincennes after the jazz festival, and I went to use my year long pass and pick up a bike, and it wouldn't work.  As I was being unsuccessful at using my bike card, this guy comes up to me on a bike, and says, "Ah!  You're an angel!  I've been circling on this thing forever."  All of the bike lock ups were full, and he needed to turn in his bike so he would quit getting charged for it.  So I'm trying to get my bike card to work, and I say, "Well, I'm apparently not that blessed, because this is clearly not working."

So we go over to the little machine thing and I type in my number, and it says, "You currently owe 1€ before you can get a bike."  And he's like, "Oh, you just have to put more money on your account, no problem."  And I say, "No no, I have the year long pass, it should work."  And he says, "Yeah, but you still have to recharge it."  And I say, "You do??  What?  I apparently don't understand how this works."  And he says, jokingly, "What, you thought you could pay 1€ one time and just ride all over France however much you please?"  And I say, "Well, I gave them my credit card information, I thought they would just keep it on file and charge me for however much I use the bikes."  And he says, "What?  No, of course not, then you'd have to send in a form."

Dingdingding.  I had completely forgotten that whenever you want to authorize a regular deduction from your bank account in France, you have to send in a special form, with like, copies of your ID and signatures and blah-dee-blah.  So I'm like, "Oh right!  The form!  I totally forgot about the forms!"  And he says, "Well of course, you don't want places just charging you however much they please all the time."  And I kind of see the logic there, but being truly American at heart (apparently), convenience is a much higher priority to me than, say, financial security.  Man, whatever.  I would rather let the Vélib' people keep my credit card information and just charge me however much I owe rather than have to fill out paperwork and wait 4-6 weeks to be able to go for a 1€ bike ride.

Anyway, the guy says, "Well it's ok, you can just put your bank card in and add money to your account right now."  And I say, "No, I don't have the chip on my card."  And he says, "What do you mean you don't have a chip?  Of course you have a chip, everyone has a chip."  And I say, "No, it's an American card, we don't have the chip."  And he doesn't believe me, so I show him all of my cards, and sure enough, no chip!  He's flabbergasted, and totally tickled.  "Hehehe!" he says.  "For once we're ahead of you guys on something!  Vive la France!"  Which was pretty funny, because he was genuinely quite happy to learn that France's credit card technology surpasses ours.  And then after he finished laughing at me and gloating, he offered to use his card to give me the 1€ it would've cost to go for a bike ride, which was really extremely nice of him.  He insisted, too - I said, "No no, that's very kind of you, but it's ok."  And he said, "No, really, it's no problem at all!  It's just 1€!"  But I thanked him again and we went our separate ways.  I dunno, I think that whole interaction might have been more fun than the bike ride, anyway!

That was all on Sunday.  The rest of this week, we had a few subjects to test, and my French friend (whose piano is sitting all alone in my house right now) got into town, and we've been having a really nice time!  He got here on Wednesday and is staying with us until Sunday or so, so it's been great catching up and hearing about his crazy summer traveling and linguistic fieldwork.  He's been in a tiny little village in Chad for the past two months, which inevitably results in some interesting stories and gorgeous photographs, and I don't have to feel bad for making him sleep on the floor because hey, he has a mattress and a pillow and that's way better than a dirt/sand floor in a leaky tent.

Yesterday, the two of us met up with a friend of his and we walked around Paris all day.  All told, we did somewhere between 10 and 12 miles, including a trek up to the Sacré Coeur (the basilica we can see from our balcony) and getting mildly lost in a neighborhood where none of us had ever been before, resulting in a necessary, well-deserved, and delicious ice cream break, followed by lots more walking and a second break for coffee and French fries a few hours later, after we dropped his friend off.  You know, coffee and French fries doesn't sound like it would be particularly appetizing, but the coffee was a really nice pick-me-up, and the French fries were nice and salty and caloric, and it really kind of hit the spot at the time.

But that's when things got a little more complicated.  So, yesterday was Bastille Day, which is French Independence Day, and there was a big military parade and a big concert and a big fireworks display, and I had planned on going to see at least part of the concert and the fireworks with the friends I'm staying with.  The thing is, one of those friends isn't big on crowds, and I went to the Eiffel Tower for New Year's Eve the year I was here, and it was the biggest, rowdiest, craziest event involving a crowd that I've ever experienced, I think.  There were people chucking full bottles of champagne in the air, and it was really pretty insane and somewhat dangerous, and knowing that my friend doesn't like crowds, I thought it might be better to avoid all that stuff and go back to the Parc de Belleville (the park from my last post, with the gorgeous view) and watch the fireworks display from there.

But there was some sort of miscommunication along the way, or something, and so while Florian and I were enjoying our weird-but-necessary coffee and French fries, waiting to hear from my friends about what they wanted to do, it turns out they had already left for the Eiffel Tower without us.  This was totally fine, except that we had pretty much decided we would like to avoid the crazy crowds and that they would probably like to avoid the crazy crowds too if they realized what they were getting themselves into, so by the time they sent me a text message saying they had already left, it was kind of hard to figure out what to do and where to meet over text messages.  Eventually we decided to meet at the metro station close to the Parc de Belleville, but I couldn't tell if they actually wanted to do that or were just being polite, and it took way longer to walk up there than I thought, so they were waiting for us at the metro for a really long time, and I felt bad about that, and then it turned out that everyone else in the northeast quadrant of Paris was trying to see the fireworks from that park too, and we couldn't see a darn thing.  I would've been okay with that, except that then I felt bad that I inadvertently made them miss the fireworks, basically.  So, Parc de Belleville FAIL.

But today is good so far.  I just had a delicious lunch with lots of veggies, which was really nice after my day of ice cream, coffee and French fries, and kebabs for dinner.  Don't get me wrong, all of those things are absolutely delicious, but sometimes a girl needs some greens.  I think I'm going to go by the store and pick up some goodies to bring home to people in the U.S., and I might be going all-in on the non-native speaker thing tonight and going to a party with a bunch of French people.  My brain usually protests for a few minutes ("Aaaack!  What??  Hang on!!") but it doesn't take too long until I don't have to concentrate anymore and can relax and just let the words wash over me.  Yesterday was a nice reminder that it really doesn't take too long to switch language gears, and that I am in fact still capable of doing it!

Well, this is a long post, and I think it's time to wrap it up now.  Thus begins my last weekend in Paris for a while, so I probably won't post again until I'm home in Berkeley, which will be Monday night!  It's been so great, but it'll nice to be back in California and start to get back into the swing of real life.  (Finally.)  Signing off!

Dans le coin: Parc de Belleville

Another evening walk with my camera...

It took me a while to find this park, but I'd say it was worth the search, if only for this one shot.

"Il faut se méfier des mots" ~ "Watch out for words"

Aaaaand crêpes for dinner... :)

Last Weekend

My friend Emily came to visit last weekend!  She's working at the Max Planck Institute for Nanobio Photonics (did I mention she's one cool chick?) in Göttingen, Germany this summer, so she took the train out to visit for a few days, and we had a really fantastic time.  So here are some pictures from over the weekend!

One of the first things we did was go up in the "Grande Roue", a big ferris wheel they construct at the end of the Champs-Elysées, in the Jardin des Tuileries, every summer.  I didn't go up in it last time I was here because it's a little pricey, but as long as I'm playing tourist this time around, we went for it.  And it was really great!

La Grande Roue de Paris

More gorgeous sky.

EmJ in the Grande Roue!

Jardin des Tuileries, seen from up above.

The Louvre, seen from the Grande Roue.

More Louvre, more Grande Roue, more gorgeous light.  *sigh*

Looking down the Rue de Rivoli from the Grande Roue.

The Louvre on the left, and the Musée d'Orsay on the right.  We went to the Musée d'Orsay on free museum day, on Sunday, and it was just as great as I remembered.

On Saturday, we went out to the Bois de Boulogne, a big beautiful park where I used to go running when I lived here, and rented bikes and tooled around for a bit on a gorgeous, sun-drenched, breezy afternoon.  I just love the public bikes here, and I love the Bois de Boulogne, and I love my camera.  Love love love.

Boats on the Lac Supérieur, in the Bois de Boulogne.

EmJ is an aspiring amateur photographer too.  :)

On Saturday evening, we stopped by the market and picked up some deeeelicious strawberries, apples, and figs, along with some cheese and bread, and had a ridiculously tasty dinner on the balcony.

Dinner, Paris style.

Figs sautéed in butter and honey, eaten with crusty baguette, fluffy cheese, and crunchy apples.  Heaven.

The first time we got figs here, they were not that great, and I was a leeeeetle bit disappointed.  But these figs totally made up for it.  Oh man, were they good, plopped on top of a baguette smeared with some ricotta-like cheese.

I have resolved to keep eating French-style once I return home.  So much delicious produce, all the time. And I live in California, for Pete's sake; if there's anywhere in the U.S. where I can eat almost as well as in France, the Bay Area is probably it.

On a somewhat related note, I've been trying to go running every day, partially to fend off the pastry pounds, but also partially to soak up as much Paris as I can before I leave.  I've got about a week and a half left, which I think will be somewhat good timing, on a personal level.  I love it here, but it'll be nice to be back in California and see Roger and my puppy dogs and my friends (the ones who aren't gone for the summer).  I do feel a little bad on the research end of things... it's been going really slowly - still having trouble finding subjects - and I'd like to stay longer and help.  But there's not too much more I can do, with time running out... keep your fingers crossed that we find some more people to test soon!

"If you know it's called 'Brittany', why didn't you just say that?"

Edit: I started this post on Monday, but am finishing it up on Friday.  So it was ridiculously hot when I started it, but it has been absolutely gorgeous the rest of the week.

Hoooo-eee it is a hot one in Paris today!  98 degrees Fahrenheit as I type this, and no air conditioning, bien sûr.  Now that I checked the temperature, I feel a little more justified in starting to feel kind of gross.  I mean, I am sitting here in a small pool of my own sweat, and I was starting to think, "Jeez, I'm a gross little piggy, just sitting here sweating for no reason."  But if it's 98 degrees out (and in), it is completely acceptable that I'm sweating for no reason.

Anyway.  I had a great weekend in Brittany visiting the French-American family I used to babysit for in the U.S.!  Brittany is a long, long way from Paris, it turns out.  You kind of realize that when you look at the map, and I already knew it would take about 4.5 hours by train to get there, but Brest is actually nearly 400 miles directly west of Paris.  I was waaaay out in the "arm" part of France, where I had never been before.  It was a really lovely train ride, and fun to watch the French countryside shift from very Midwestern looking to very Irish looking over the course of my journey.  The west coast of France is so beautiful (well, most of France is pretty beautiful...), and the friends I was visiting were kind enough to take me out and about a bit to get a good look at it.  We drove out the Pointe St. Mathieu to a really cool lighthouse, and I was able to get some nice pictures of the coast and the countryside.

The lighthouse we went up into.

Shadow from the lighthouse and an old church on the same grounds.

The very western edge of the French coastline, looking north towards Le Conquet.

Cutie pies!

The kids were every bit as sweet as I remember - just really nice, fun boys, and it was great to catch up with A and S too.  A was a grad student in linguistics at the U of I when I was an undergrad, which is sort of how we made a connection, and then I wound up babysitting the boys for about a year while she worked on her dissertation.  It's crazy how much they've grown up, of course - the youngest one is now older than the oldest one was when I used to watch them, but they still look and act so much like I remember.  It's cool that their personalities haven't changed much, and it was really neat to see how much they've grown and matured.

Oh, the title for this post comes from a conversation I had with the older of the boys, who is now 8 (8!).  One thing I found myself thinking a lot about during and after my stay with them was the amount and type of code switching going on.  You can look at the Wikipedia link for more info if you're interested, but basically it's pretty normal for people in an environment who share multiple languages to switch in and out of those languages during the course of conversation.  I find code switching really fascinating from a linguistic point of view and also just really fun to do.  The thing is, as an English-dominant person living in an English-dominant environment, my opportunities for code switching are normally extremely limited.  I did it a lot more when I was living in France with a bunch of bilingual Americans, naturally, but what was interesting to me over the weekend was how different this family's code switching is from how mine is, and how my group of friends' was.  The rules were just different, and I couldn't get a handle on how much of it was competence driven, in the case of the boys, and how much of it was conscious vs. below the level of consciousness.  For example, they pretty much never switched languages in the middle of sentences, which is something I find myself inclined to do, given the opportunity; the switching was more on the level of the whole conversation, meaning there were many cases where one person asked a question in one language and it was responded to in the other language, and no one really seemed to notice or care, whereas for me, switching languages is more of a stylistic choice, I think.  Sometimes there are certain things that happen to sound better or are more readily expressed in one language or another.

Anyway, I was talking to the older boy in the car, and I had a whole sentence in English but inserted the word Bretagne in French.  He kind of paused and then said, trying to be helpful, "The word for that in English is Brittany."  So I replied cheerfully, "Oh, I know, but thank you."  He looked bothered by this, and said, "If you know the word in English, why did you say it in French?"  I had to think about it for a minute.  Why did I do that?  I often don't actually know why certain things want to come out in one language or another, but it is fascinating to me.  In this case, I was able to come up with a plausible explanation: "I think I did that because usually when I talk about Brittany, it's in French."  And I think that's true; I'm nearly certain I've heard and used the word Bretagne more times than I've heard and used the word Brittany.  Also, Brittany is French, so it feels like its name should be French.  Just like it feels a little weird saying "Shee-cah-go" for Chicago or how I really didn't like people calling me "May-leen-dah" when I first moved here.  It's just silly to say things in the "wrong" accent if you know how to do it in the "right" one.

That made me wonder if the boys were only switching languages when they couldn't come up with the right way to say things in one or the other language, which is what P's comment would suggest.  And it made me wonder if they always notice when someone switches languages, and what they understand the rules for switching to be, if any.

Well, that will be enough discussion of that, for now.  I've been doing a fair amount of reading this week, and I think I might turn back to that now before my friend Emily gets here.  It's made me a little sad, turning back to my reading this week; it's easy to forget I'm in Paris when I'm trying to concentrate on my reading (but I need to keep slogging away at it, with the whole "dissertation" thing coming up).  I feel like I should be out walking around and enjoying being here more, but it's good to get some work done, too.  I have 2 1/2 weeks left before I leave, and I've gone running every morning this week, and I'll be out and about all weekend with Emily visiting, so I'm getting out and seeing things plenty.  I just somehow feel a little guilty sitting inside reading when I love being here so much and I know I have to leave in not too, too long!

Obligatory, Gratuitous Eiffel Tower Pictures (etc. etc.)

Karen is here!  Roger's sister is visiting me from Vienna this weekend, and I think I may have already gained a few pounds from all the delicious food we've been consuming...

We lucked out and had a gorgeous day today for our mini sightseeing tour.  The city is just blanketed in dreamy, fluffy, cotton-candy clouds, and we took the opportunity to go up in the Arc de Triomphe and take pictures of the landscape, and then to walk down by the Eiffel Tower and take all the touristy shots you're supposed to take.  I didn't do a lot of that while I actually lived here, and it was fun to just be like a tourist all day today.

We've also been trying to walk a lot to undo some of the damage of all of the delicious food we've been eating...

The Arc de Triomphe, seen from towards the end of the Champs Elysées.

The inside of the Arc, before we went up inside it.

Looking down the Champs Elysées toward the bottom.  The huge, long building running perpendicular to the Avenue, at the very end, is the Louvre.  If you look at the very right of the photo, along the horizon, you can also see the two towers of Notre Dame Cathedral.

Looking straight down at l'Eglise St. Augustin (a pretty church), and to the left, on the hill, you can see the Basilique du Sacré Coeur, which is pretty close to where we're staying right now.

My goodness, I love this city.

Karen in front of Ye Olde Tower.

Looking through the bottom of the Tower, at all the tourists and the gorgeous sky.

I never get tired of taking versions of this picture.

Moi, along the Seine.

I have lots of work to get done this weekend, before I leave for my conference on Tuesday, so I should get to it instead of posting on here!

Dans le coin: Canal St. Martin

Here are some pictures from my walk this evening.  I'm a little disappointed at how the sky turned out in most of them - it was really nice, but really subtle, and because the light conditions were low, my camera did a really good job of adjusting its settings to let in more light, making the very subtle, darkening sky not quite as subtle or dark as it really was.

We're so, so lucky to be staying in the Canal St. Martin neighborhood.  It's so cute, and so "authentically Parisian" without being touristy at all!

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This shot is looking right down at our street.  There are SO many bike lanes in Paris now, and public bikes everywhere!  It is amazing!  I'm getting so much exercise and getting to see so much of Paris.  I love it.

Public bikes!  And a lot of the bike lanes go in between the parked cars and the curb (or here, between the parked bikes and the curb), so you're protected from traffic.  It is awesome.

Sunset at 10:15?  Don't mind if I do!

This café/brasserie has been calling my name since we got here.  They had live music on Friday night, and it just looks so very cozy.  It's right across the street from us, too, so we'll definitely have to go at least once before we leave.

The past few days have been tiring, but beautiful, but sometimes a little discouraging.  Tiring because we've been posting a lot of flyers, a little discouraging because we haven't gotten much of a lot of response yet, and beautiful because this entails walking and biking all over Paris, which is of course great, and I've been sleeping really well!

It's been raining off and on the past two days, too, and we even got a heck of a thunderstorm the night before last.  I love summer thunderstorms and I've missed them, and there are few things more romantic than lying in bed in Paris with the windows open, listening to the falling rain.

I went for a run along the canal yesterday and got caught in the pouring rain for a while, which was fun but not something I want to repeat every day, so between that and all the walking and biking we did yesterday, and then the drizzle that was coming down this morning, I was sore and not feeling like a second day of rain-running in a row, so I didn't run this morning.  That worked out fine, because we did lots more walking and biking today, so I definitely still got my exercise in.  Even though I'm eating at least one pastry a day, I might end up losing weight on this trip!  Gotta love that French paradox.

My Facebook friends may have already seen this, but when we were posting flyers today, I had the following exchange with a French police officer:


French police officer: You can't put that poster here.
me: But then why is this other poster already here?
him: Because they put it up when I wasn't looking.
me: Ok, well, we'll take it down, then.
him: Ok, you can put it up when I'm not looking.


Oh France.  I have missed you, and you are much easier to love when I'm only here for a few weeks.